Plenty of travelers from Saudi Arabia and the Gulf know Baku well: the Flame Towers, the Caspian boulevard and the walled Old City. But the other side of Azerbaijan starts a few hours north of the capital, with apple orchards, dense forests and stone villages on the slopes of the Caucasus. Autumn is one of the best times to see it. The summer heat has broken, the mountains are cooling and the apple harvest is in full swing.
This guide maps a practical route from Baku north to Quba, Qusar, Shahdag Mountain Resort and the village of Khinalug, with an optional extension west to Sheki. Then it answers the question that matters most on mountain roads: how do you stay connected? If this is your first visit, start with our Azerbaijan travel guide to Baku and Gabala and come back here.
Why the North in Autumn?
Autumn in the north is a shoulder season. Days are mild and good for walking and photos, while nights turn cold, especially at altitude, so pack warm layers. As the season moves on, rain increases around the mountains and snow starts to appear on the high peaks, so early autumn is the sweet spot for open mountain roads and clear skies. The National Day break falls right inside that window.
The Road from Baku: Beshbarmag and the Striped Hills of Khizi
The highway from Baku to Quba is part of the experience. Beside it rises Beshbarmag, the Five Finger Mountain, whose rocky peaks look like an open hand. It makes an easy stop for photos. If you have extra time, a side road branches west off the highway through the hills of Khizi, known among travelers as the Candy Cane Mountains for their bands of red, pink and white rock. Autumn and spring are among the best seasons to walk there.
Quba: The Apple Capital
About two to three hours by car from Baku, Quba is the best-known apple-growing region in Azerbaijan, with orchards on every side. In autumn the town celebrates the harvest with an annual apple festival, where growers show off their varieties alongside jams, juices and sweets. The date changes from year to year, so check it before you travel if you want to catch it.
In town, the historic Juma Mosque, dating from the late 18th century, is worth a short visit. Quba is also known for hand-woven carpets, so if you want a souvenir that lasts, this is the place. And do not leave without a box of Quba apples for the road.
Qusar and Shahdag Mountain Resort
North of Quba lies Qusar, and higher up in the mountains beyond it sits Shahdag Mountain Resort, the largest mountain tourism complex in the country. The resort operates year-round, with skiing in winter and hiking, cycling and cable cars in summer. Autumn falls between the two seasons, so check what is actually running on your dates and plan a slower day of views, even if some activities are paused.
Khinalug: A Village Above the Clouds
From Quba, a paved mountain road climbs for roughly 50 kilometers. It passes the dense forests around Qachrash (Qəçrəş), then enters a deep rocky gorge before reaching Khinalug, one of the highest inhabited villages in the Caucasus at more than 2,000 meters. Its stone houses step up the slope like a staircase, its people speak their own language, and in 2023 the village became part of a UNESCO World Heritage site.
The drive takes around an hour and a half to two hours in good conditions, and the weather up top changes quickly. Set off early, bring warm clothes even if Quba feels mild, and check the road conditions before heading up, especially later in the season.
Heading West: Sheki and the Palace of the Khans
If your trip is longer than a weekend, Sheki deserves a night or two. The town sits in the northwest, around four to four and a half hours by car from Baku, and its historic center, including the Palace of the Sheki Khans, is on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Built in the 18th century as the summer residence of the khans, the palace is famous for its shebeke windows: thousands of pieces of colored glass set into wooden lattices without nails or glue. Try the famous Sheki halva before you leave, and consider pairing the town with nearby Gabala, which we cover in our earlier Azerbaijan guide.
How to Stay Connected on Northern Roads
The Simply eSIM for Azerbaijan runs on local networks with speeds up to 5G where available. Coverage is excellent in Baku and good in Gabala and the tourist resorts, but it can weaken on some mountain roads between towns, and in remote high villages like Khinalug you should treat the signal the way you would in any remote mountain area. That makes preparation the difference on a northern road trip:
- Download offline maps of the north before you leave Baku, especially for the Khinalug road.
- Confirm your phone supports eSIM on the compatible devices list, then install the eSIM at home on stable Wi-Fi using the installation guide.
- Your Saudi number stays on your phone for calls and bank verification codes while your data runs through the travel eSIM. See how two lines on one phone work.
- Maps, ride apps and video calls with family use more data than you expect on road trips, so track your usage in the app and add a new plan when needed without changing the eSIM.
Azerbaijan and Georgia in One Trip?
If your route continues into Georgia, the Middle East bundle covers both countries on a single eSIM instead of one per country. Plan the route with the Caucasus three-country route, and if Kakheti is on your list, read Georgia in autumn.
Before You Go
If you are traveling over the National Day break, run through the pre-flight connectivity checklist so everything is done from home. Then open the Azerbaijan page and check the plans available in the app before takeoff. From the moment you land in Baku, you will be connected and ready for the road north.
Written by
Simply Team
